Embroidery or ornamental-stitch sewing-machine.



PATBNTBD DEC. 31,- 1907.

W. N. PARKBS. EMBROIDERY OR ORNAMBNTAL STITCH SEWING-MACHINE.

APBLIGATION FILED NOV. 29.1905.

6 SHEETS-SHEET l.

PATENTED DEG. 31,' 19.07.

W. N. EAEKES. EMBROIDERY 0R ORNAMENTAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV.29. 1905.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

WITNESSES:

PATENTED DEC. 31, 1907.

W. N. PARKES. EMBROIDERY 0B. ORNAMENTAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 29.1905.

/- 6 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

PATENTED DEG. S1. 1907.

W. N. PARKBS. v EMBROIDERY 0R ORNAMENTAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV.29,1905.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

WITN ESSES:

y r lr N0. 875,625. PATENTED DEC. 31, 1907.

W. N. BIENES. y EMBROIDERY 0E OENEMENTAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 29,1905.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

WITNESSES: INVENTOR 'dle thread t 'the stitches will becalled alink of needle umrnD-sTATEs PATENT onnron..

WILLIAM 1N. ranke-s, oF BROOKLYN,4 `New vonk.

EMBROIDERY, ORQRNAMENTALSTITCH SEWING-MACHINE.

' if. Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented nec. s1, 1907.'

" I Application fld November 29, 1905. -Seriali No, 289,646.

' Tocll whom it/iridyconcm: p Be it known thatl, WILL'IAM'N. Pl RKEs,

a citizen'- of ,the United States, 'residing' in Broo l ;l`}'Tnj,y 'county of Kings, and State of New York,`7have invented a new anduseful Im` provement in. Embroidery for Ornamentaltitch Se g-Machines, of'which the foll'ow' ing is afdescri tion.

-This invention relates to sewing machines and belongs to the class known as embroidery or ornamental-stitch sewingm'achines In sewingmachines the thread is anchored 5 inthe work at the point where the needle pre- 'viously penetrated the same,.and a stitch is said to ave' been made at that point, then the Work ismoved after which the thread is again anchored in the work and `another stitch is said to`have been made. On the -side ofthe Work that the needleenters, the needle thread runs from one to another of the said stitches. l 'A In this application that portion of the nee- 'at runls Jfrom one to another of thread-and the stitches on the needle side of the work will be said to be connected'by links of, needle thread. On'the looperside of the work 'stitches made bv a lock stitchv machine the thread on the surface of the work runs .substantially in a` straight line, but When the lneedle is moved laterally then of course the threadon the surface ofthe work runs laterally from one to another of the lateral points where the thread is anchored in the Work. When the Work is moved forward very slowly and the needle is moved laterally, the links of needle threadfand of bobbin thread running `from one to another of the stitches lie contiguous to each othersothat the fabric or Workis completely covered along a path that is 'thewidthot the extent4 that the needle is moved laterally. The stitches are deposited in the workin this manner primarilytor the purpose of embellishing vor ornamenting the- -ment, in contradistinctionl toa i `fabric, and work is j therevforecalled 4eine4 broidery, and when the work is moved laterally, or the working position ofthe needleis changed laterally so that the path covered by the links of needle thread runs in scallops the product is called embroidered scallops or fesf toons. In making embroidery of this kind it is .of course evident, if4 only one needle is used, that there are tworows of stitches runningV along the edge oi the -path covered by the links of needle thread, and these links run laterally and consecutively trom vone to an.

other of these edge stitches. It is thus clear that 'the embroidered path is com osed of lat'- eral links of thread that are anc ored-in the iabricat the edge of said path.y When ythis .kind of embroidery is used for edge 'work the material is cut away close to one edge of the path of the embroidery after the 'work-has. `been done,` or the material is cut tothe ath that it is desired 'to embroider. l In either' -case the stitches that lie loutside or at thev edge of the material are deprived of-their an-` chorage in the material. By reason of this the stitches4r shift at the' edge of the material, when the article is used, and the edge is thereby exposed in places and the material trays out. An edge finished in this .manner -also has an unfinished appearance, andl does not look like hand Work because there is no purl along its edge. i

f Referring now to the vobject of'my invention it is .noted that themain object' of the same is to provideim roved means for makmg embroidered seal ops or festoons and'to combine with said means a device for mak- .l ing apurl along the edge of said scallop to hold'the stitches in place, and to give the scallop a' hand iinished appearance'.

. The invention consists mainly of means for vibrating laterally a reciprocating ne'edle, means for progressively moving the work forward land laterally so as to dispose the stitches vto make embroidereddesigns or scallops and means for looping an auxiliary threadaround links of the needle thread along the eXtreme edge of said design. f

In some sewing machines of this character' to which my invention is applied, the needle is reciprocated vertically and vibratedlaterally7 and in othersit is moved progressively or step' 'by step laterally. The term ,vi brated laterally. used in this specification means a to and fro, or back and forth move- A progressive or step by step lateral movement.

, close the construction ofthe same.

is a sectional view of parts ofthe work moving mechanism disclosing the construction of the same. Fig. 5 is an end view of the' mechanism shown in'Fig. 2 with the parts in their o erative position, and Fig. 6 is'an end view of) the same looking in an opposite direction to that indicated by the -arrow in said figure.

vshaft ofthe machine.

y3, is secured an ordinary switch cam 5 which rThebase of the arm of the machine is shown in4 section in this Fig.- 6, toV expose the man# ner in which the ratchet wheel that operates the work moving mechanism is driven. Fig. 7 is a front view of the work moving mechanism, the base of the arm of the machine being shown infsection to expose the looper mechanism, and part .of the work moving mechanism. Fig. 8 is a top plan-view of the auxiliary thread carrying finger, andv Fig. 9 is a detail in connection with the o erating mechanism for this finger. Fig. 10i] ustratesan embroidereddesign stitched on the machine, and Figs. 11 and l2 are enlarged dia grammatic views showing the intertwining of the threads at the edge of the design. Fig.v

13 isa diagrammaticview showing the auxilia 'thread looped around links of the. needlethread about midway of the lateral stitches. v

1n the drawings, 1 indicates the arm, 2 the base, 3 .the driving shaft, and 4 the lower On the driving shaft in a usual manner oscillates a segment lever 6 that is pivoted at 7 to the forward end of a short shaft 8. -The said shaft is suitably j ournaled in a bracket 9 that is secured to the top of the arm of the machine.y Y In the segment lever 6, is formed a way 110 whichextends over the pivot of the lever, and in the said way is adjustably secured the end 11 of a two part connection 12. The forward end Lof said two part connection is connected at 13 to .themeans whicho'scillate a reciprocating needle bar 14 that is suitably adapted to be oscillated in bearings in the forward end of the arm of the machine. To the lower end i o the needle-bar is secured a needle-holderin my copending application Serial No.

93,037, filed February 7, ,1902. It will now be understood that when the' machine is .opieratei the lever 6 is oseillat'ed, and from t s movement the needleis moved laterally, land the shaft 8 is oscillated.

To the forward end of the shaft 4 is attached a gear wheel 17 that is in enga ement with a ear 18, the latter being secure to the under slde of a looper 19, as shown .in Fig. 3. Onl the under side of the looper carrier; is formed a shaft 20 that'is journaled in asuitable bracket 21, which :latter is secured to the under side of the basecf the headv of the machine. A looper722'having a beak 23 is carried by the loo er carrier 19, and in the said looper is sita ly located abobbin case 24 that carries a bobhin 25. The axis of the needle-bar 14 is coincident with the axis of the looper 22, and the needle 16 is a sufficient distance from the axis of the needle-bar to bringit just outside ofthe periphery of the looper. It will no w be understood that the needle moves laterally in a path that is concentric with the path of the beak 2 3 ofthe looper, and that consequently, there is no lateral change between the needle and the looper because of the lateral movement of the needle.

The looper, 'used in my present machine, is constructed-as in my copending application Serial No. 277 ,774, filed September 9, 1905, and the auxiliary hook for assisting in the passing of the loop of needle4 thread around the bobbin, is also shown in said application. Inpractice in this machine, 1 use the bobbin controller shown and described in my copending application Serial No. 154,457, filed April 27 1903. The looper in my present machine, revolves twice to each reci rocation of the needle, as in my said copentng applications. i lj 'I The stitch forming mechanism-'shown herein, is preferred for use inv combination with my inve tion, but it is to be understood that it is not essential, as the invention may be used in connection with various kinds of stitch forming mechanisms. vThe mechanism which comprises my invention and'whic'h' is adapted for use in combination with this stitch forming mechanism, will now be' described. To therear end of the shaft 8, isv

secured an arm 26 `in the face of which is formed a way 27, as indicated lin dotted lines in Fig. 1. This way runs across the axis of the shaft 8 same as 'the'way '10 in kthe seg ment lever 6. In the way 27, isaadju'stably secured, by means not shown, one end of a connecting rod 28, the forward end of which is connected to an arm 29 tliat is clam ed to the upper end of a rod 30. The rot 30'is journaled in a presser-bar 31, and the latter is mounted insuitable bearings in the end of .the arm of the machine, andisdepressed by a usual presserbar spring, not shown. To

the lower end of the rod 30, is securedA as shown in Fig. 8, a thread carrying finger or arm 32, in which ar'e thread guiding holes 33 and 34, and a thread delivery eye 35. On the finger, is formed inclined surfaces36 and 37, which meet and form 'an apex 38'through whichthe delivery-eye 35 passes. .The rod 30 vextends. a suicient extent below the presser bar 31, to permit the'finger carrying base 31a to be clamped to the same by a screw 32i in a usual manner as is shown in Fig. 8. The nger 32 is adjustably secured to' said base in a usual manner, by means of a screwwhich passesV through a slot in the base of the nger as shown lin Figs. 3 and 5. From thesaid Figs. 3 and 5 and said Fig. 8, it will be clearly seen lthat the iingercarrying base 3 1a is clamped Von the lower end of the rod 30 and abuts the lower end, of the presser-bar so as to prevent upward movement of said rod 30.

And by referring to Fig. 9, it will be seen that the arm 29 is secured `to the 'top end ofthe` `rod 30, and this arm abuts in a usual manner the top end of thepresser-bar 31,'and thereby prevents longitudinal movement ofthe said rod.

The auxiliary thread carrying device 32 is called in this specification, and in the claims an arm, and afinger, but this device loops an auxiliary thread varound the links of needle- .thread,1 and it is therefore to be understood that the terni arm or finger comprehendsl any device that will perform this function. It will nowbe understood, that when the machineis operated, ltheiinger 32-will be moved laterally in vthe same direction in which the needle moves laterally, `and inuni son with said lateral movements of the nee-` dle. The incline parts 36'and 37 ofthe finger 32 serve as a means for dis lacing the needle thread as the apex 38 o the finger crosses the path'of the same, it being understood that the said apex extends a sufficient extent back of the needle to draw the auxiliary thread 89 backfar enough for the needle 'todescend in front of the same as will be understood' by referring to Fig. 8.

The means provided for moving the work,

`will now be described.

`needle slot 74.

cam 51.' ln the periphery of thecain, yis a' cam groove 52. In a part 53, that is secured to the shaft 43, is secured a pin on which is located an anti-friction roller 54 thatis in engagement with the cam groove 52. l .To the forward end of the sleeve 5 0 is secured a feed -wheel 55 that is adapted to engage the to the outer end of which issecured one end of a spring 58, vthe other end o'f'said spring being' connected to a pin 59'tliat extends downwardly from the arm 47. A. pin '59* serves as an abutment for the extending part of said friction clam-p, and the spring 5Siiormally'draws thje clamp intoengagement with said pint pin 60 servesas a means for limiting the forward movement o f the clamp,v and a screw 62 serves as a means for regulatin@ the extent of the `friction on the shaft.

zin the operationof the ratchet wheel 45, the friction between the shaft 43, and the frictional clamping device, normally carries the clamping device forward against th'e action-of the spring 5S until the tension of the spring is greaterthan the friction between 'the shaft and the clamping device. ln'piactice, the .parts are adjusted so that this point is reached'when the extended end of the clamping device is intermediate-of the'ab'utting pin and limiting pin. Under the action of this friction device, the ratchet wheel is normally drawn by the spring 5S'4 in an op?.

posite direction to its forward movement into enga ement with a stop pawl 63, and throwing a iead o'f the ratchetwheel, and the parts ico operated by it is. avoided, andv an accurate.'

feed fronithe movement of the ratchet wheel is' assured.

On the bracket 49 is a reduced portion, as

at 64, Fig. 4, and on said reduced portion` is located aspring 65, one end of which'engages the arm 47 and the other end a part 66 that is circularly'adjustable on the reducedV portion-64 of the bracket 49. This spring normally turns the shaft 4S in the direction indicated by the arrow in Fig. 6. f

To the b ase of the machine, is secured' guide pieces 67 and 68 between whichis a'clapted'to slide a plate 69. In the plate 69, is formed a suitable way 70' in which is adapted to slide an auxiliary plate 71, and through the latter is an elongated-opening 72. From the bottom of the way 70, extends upwardly a boss 73, and through said boss passes a with the top of the auxiliary plate.v To the `auxiliary plate v71, is secured a bracket .75 in which a groove 76 is formed.- Asring 7T is bestseenjin Figs. Zand 5;

The top of the boss is flush In the bracket 75, is secured astud'YfS".

Which is secured one end'of a drag foot ca rier 79, and to the Aouter end 'of the drag foot carrier, is pivoted a drag 'foot 8O Which is n adapted to engage the Work, andl press the sameagainst the auxiliary plate 71. The drag vfoot carrier is reduced as indicated at 81, (Fig. 7), s'o that it is flexible enough to permit of the drag foo-t being lifted to place 10 the Workunder the same, 4and the end that is doc'ated on the stud 78 may be adjusted circularly on` the same so as to increase or decrease the pressure of the'dra 'footon the Work. The foot'is pivoted tot e end of the drag foot carrier as best shown` in Fig. 5, 'so it lWill be understood that-the foot is adapted to conform to the level of the Work. The' function of the dra foot is to put a friction on the Workso as to oldthesame-taut across the and thereby or puckering.

he arm 47 portion ,82, the part 83 of Which is adapted to Which latter is attached to the base of the machine as best -seen in Fig. 6. In the ratchet Wheel 45, issecured a stud 86, the end of Whichis located in a hole 87 that passes through the cam 51 asbest shown in Fig. 4. In the operation f the machine, the ratchet Wheel 45 is revolved by the operating paWl 44, and by reason of the connection betWeen the ratchet Wheel and the cam 51, the A latteris revolved in unison With the ratchet Wheel.' As the cam revolves, it reciprocates laterally by reason of the en agement between4 the cam groove 52, and t e roller 54, it being understood that -the 'latter cannot move laterally. As the cam rotates, and moves Vlaterally thesleeve 50 is rotated and moved laterally, and this movementis transmitted to the feed Wheel 55, and it is rotated and moved laterally, andthrough this movement of the feed Wheel, the' Work is moved forward and laterally. The cam groove 52 is suitably constructed to move the Work laterally so as to produce, in combination With the laterally moving needle, the design illus-v trated in Fig. 10. The needle moves laterally ,back and forth a constant extent, but

thelsaid feed Wheel moved progressively lat- -e'ially so the stitches are deposited on the Work as indicated in said Fig. 10.

It is obvious thatthe'extent of the laterall movement of the needle may be varied, that the shape of the design may be varied by using different cams or otherwise, or that various other changes may be made in the mechanism Without departing from the spirit of my invention. So it is to be understood that I do not Wish to be confined to the particular form of my yinvention herein selected for the disclosure ofl the same. 65 In the operation of the stitch forming needle plate, to take the strain off the stitchesprevent the Work from drawing has a rearWardly extending engagel ancatch 84 formedA on a spring 85,l

.v.-'mee'hanism, the needle is moved laterally i from the movement of the lever 6, and the.

finger 32 is moved laterally in the same direction in Which the needle moves laterally. The end of the connection 28 is adjusted on 70 the arm 26 so that .the apex 28 of the finger moves a greater extent laterally than the needle, and the Working position of the finger is adjusted so said apex moves-a greater distance on one side of lthe zone of lateral 75 movement of theneedle than the other 'as shown in Fig. 8. This movement of the 1inger to one side of the zone of flateralmovement of theneedle, causes the finger to entWine lthe auxiliary thread'along the outer edge of the embroidered design, as illustrated in Figs. 10 and 12.

In `Fig. 12, the needle thread is indicated by the reference character 88, and the auxiliary thread by 89. The manner in which the embroidery threads are twisted around the auxiliary thread,l as shown in Fig. 12, is brought about by having a slight tension on thel auxiliary thread, and adjustingthe action of the finger so it finishes its stroke in the direction of the arrow, (Fig. 8), just previous or at aboutthe time the take-up setsthe stitch;

In Fig. 11, the auxiliary thread 89 is shown loosely entWined around the needle 95 thread, and separated so it may be clearly seen how this thread is twisted about the needle'thread.

In Fig". 8, the looper thread is entWined around the needle. thread and at the edge of the Iembroidery stitches, this effect being produced by having the tension on the auxiliarythread very light, and setting the embroidery stitch just previous to finishing the strokeof the finger.

Thedevice for manipulating an auxiliary thread in combination With the lateral stitches, is valuable for purposes other than those Which havebeen ex lained.` For exornamental stitches as is illustrated in Fig. 13.` In the making of this ornamental stitch design, thethread carrying finger is moved an equal distance on each side of the ing needle, a feeding device that engages the Work and moves it progressively forward ample, it may be effective y used in making zone of lateral movement of the needle, and

relative to said feeding device, means for 130` dispose the stitches to make 'an embroidered moving the Work progressively laterally to design', and means for looping an auxiliary thread around links of the needle thread.

2Q In combination'in a sewing machine, a vertically reciprocating and laterally vibrating needle, a device-for moving the Work prov gressively forward, meansifor moving "the -Work' progressively' laterally to .dispose the stitches to make' an embroidered design, and' means for looping an auxiliary thread con-V secutively around the links ofthe 'needle thread along the edge of said design.

3.` In combination in a sewing machine, a

vertically reciprocating and 4laterally vibrating needle, a device for moving the Work progressively forward, means for moving the work progressively laterally ,to Jdispose' the' -stitches to' make an embroidered design, and

means for loopin van auxiliary thread around links' of the need e thread including a thread carrying device that moves. laterally in unison With the lateralmovements of the needle. A

.fmechamsm compr1singa reciprocating van l 4. In a.sewing machine, a stitch formin laterally moving needle, a feed` mechanism comprising a revolving feed Wheel adapted to engage the Work, means forreciprocating said feed. Wheel in a.direction'a't rightv angles to the direction in Which it revolves, an auxiliary thread carrying device andmeans. for. operating said auxiliary thread carrying. .de

- vice so that its thread is looped consecutively around the linksof the'needle thread 5. In a s'eWingNmac'hine, a stitch 'formin mechanism comprisinga reciprocating an laterally moving needle, a needle plate adapted to reciprocate, a revolving feed Wheeladapted to enga e the Work, a'nd means operated separate yfrom the stitch forming mechanism for' reciprocatii'igsaid needle plate and said .feed wheel.

6. In a sewing machine, a stitch formingI mechanism comprisinga reciprocating and :laterally moving' needle, a-v needle plate isv in direct eng-agement with vthe Work, `a

drag foot, and means for simultaneously moving laterally said needle plate, said feeding device and said drag foot.'-

8. A sewing machine having a ,verticallyreciprocating and laterally moving needle, a

thread carrying finger comprising a thread delivery part, means for moving said finger laterallyvin the same direction in which the" needle moves laterally so the thread delivery Vp a-rt crossesthe path of ltheneedle, and means adapting said finger to pushthe neev dle thread from its path as it crosses the path Qi' the needle. l

In .testimonywhereof I" have hereunto signed my name in the presence offtwo 'smb--4 scribing Witnesses.-

j WILLIAM N. PARKES.. Witnesses:

-J."B..M CGI`RR,

WM..W`. KETCHUM. 

